Tuesday, October 26, 2010

France in the Fall October 2010

Aix-en-Provence in October 

As I headed home from my last class on Friday, I noticed an older man walking slowly in front of me. It was not his pace that caught my eye, but rather his French "aura." This man, taller than myself, wore a tailored pair of khaki's, a navy wool sweater and a knitted red scarf. His round tortoise-shell glasses only illuminated his thick silver mustache and rosy wind-brushed cheeks. Carrying a large wooden basket filled with baguettes and a variety of produce just purchased at the daily farmer's market, the gentleman was probably walking home to "reposer" in his French abode. I could not quite pinpoint the man's age, but I had to guess he was somewhere over 65. Trying to guess this man's age led me to ask myself the question: I wonder if he is being effected by the recent reforms passing through the French government. He did not seem to be upset or disheveled due to the recent riots taking place all over his country. This man, however, was relaxed and moving on with his everyday life- similar to most of the residents I have seen here in Aix-en-Provence. Over the past three weeks France has been in a state of crisis trying to pass a bill changing the retirement age from 60 to 62. I have seen two protests in town, but what I have seen does not even compare to the riots reported in cities like Paris, Lyon and Marseille. The gravity of France's political situation became clear to me when I traveled to Marseille for my required study abroad immigration doctors visit. In light of this retirement age controversy, I have been reading articles in the news about government employed workers striking and abandoning their jobs in acts of protest. When we pulled up to the immigration office in Marseille, it was apparent that the garbage collectors were one of the government-sponsored groups who were striking. Piles of trash lined the streets and were taller than some of the students in our group. All of the bus companies were on strike as well, and we had to take the metro home to Aix. These strikes were a major inconvenience and health hazard because of the trash. I am happy the strikes were much more subtle in Aix-en-Provence. Our trip last weekend had to be cancelled due to extremely violent riots in Lyon, France. Massive groups of young students were protesting by vandalizing stores and schools. The police had to suppress the masses with tear gas two days before our scheduled weekend in Lyon. Mainly, it is groups teenagers and young adults who are most enraged by this two year bump in the retirement age. It made me wonder if these kids really foresee themselves being too weak at the age of 60 to continue on for two more years. I read an article by a 14-year-old French girl with the title "what does trashing my school have to do with the retirement age." Another article read, "The French are merely bored." It has been since 1968 when the country of France last came to a major standstill. Luckily now though, my host-mother, Danielle, showed us the newspaper this morning with the main article stating, "the French troubles are over." I think that the government's next battle should be reforming the law passed by Napoleon III around 1848 stating that workers were allowed to riot and protest... Just some food for thought.
Fountain in Aix-en-Provence 


This Fall I have seen so many different fashions and trends that separate American and French styles. The French women and men alike sport all different types of Birkenstock sandals. That was one of the first trends I noticed when I first arrived in France in September. I was confused why all the men and women I saw were wearing all the same shoes. Boots and high-heeled boots are very popular in Aix. There seem to be more shoe stores here than clothing stores. Coming to France, I was nervous about the legendary chic "French Fashion." Everyone told me that the French women dressed with great sophistication and always wore black. The women I see here in Aix, I think dress a little different than the women walking away from a show at Paris Fashion Week. I remember the women in Paris wore very high heels and designer handbags. In southern France the women and men dress for practicality more so than making a fashion statement. The women here do not only wear black, but they do accessorize very well with different scarves, boots, glasses, hats and jackets. I was so worried about wearing the 'right thing' in France before I left America, and now I realize the French are just as practical as we are at Sewanee on cold fall days. Zara and H&M are extremely popular stores. The French love UGG boots also, because they are so rare and expensive here. Whenever Kathleen or I wear our UGG boots out of the house, our host-mother tells us how much she loves them. In America, UGG's are expensive, but not $350 American dollars-- like they cost in France. Who knew boots that everyone thought were "ugg-ly" in 8th grade would be such a French fashion statement. Puffy coats are very popular here as well as the very chunky knit scarves. I do tend stick out of the crowd with my Patagonia fleece and bright yellow North Face backpack... but I can live with that. 
Hotel de Ville, Aix-en-Provence 

I was so surprised to see so many dogs when I first came to Aix-en-Provence. It is rare for cities to have an abundance of Labrador Retrievers and Golden Retrievers. I usually associate big dogs with living in suburbs or in the country. Westies are also very popular here; there are a few shops around town that have these dogs as their mascots. For as surprised as I was that the French had so many dogs, I was even more surprised how many owners do not pick up after their dogs. Luckily, the street cleaners spray the streets every night, but it was still very startling at first. France in the fall has been very temperate and enjoyable, aside from the riots. I am glad that we were hardly affected by them at all. I love getting the chance to walk through the different markets and shop around. I also joined a gym. It is comical because the machines are pretty old, but it gets the job done. It has been nice getting back into the swing of things. 
Aix Farmers Market

I am off to my art class now. Hope you have a lovely fall afternoon in America, or wherever you are reading from. Carve a pumpkin for me for Halloween, because I will be in Rome on Sunday October 31st for Fall break! Kathleen, David and I are traveling to Rome, Florence and Venice for 9 days! 
So excited! 
I'll be sure to update everyone soon! 

Miss you lots! xo
Molly 

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