Sunday, December 19, 2010

Home Safe & Sound

After 24 hours of travel and about 3 hours of sleep, I am so happy to be home in America.
Christmas is just around the corner! Mom has set up the Christmas tree, and Andrew has strung the lights. It is like I never left...

Thank you everyone for reading my blog and following my adventures. I am thinking of starting a new blog soon! Stay tuned....

xo Molly

Last Days in Aix-en-Provence

Cours Mirabeau at Christmastime 
I have spent the past three and a half months living in Europe. Leaving for the Marseille/Provence airport in less than five hours, I cannot help but be nostalgic. My two large "rolly" bags are packed to the brim, and my carry on is filled with all the gifts I bought for family and friends from my travels. Kathleen and I had our last and final dinner with Danielle. She made us a simple salad to start and a potato tart and a rotisserie for our main meal. It was cute, she said how much she is going to miss us and how fast the time has gone by. We walked David to the Gare Routiere (bus station) tonight after dinner. David's host family loves him. His host father even said David was the reason he was beginning to like Americans (haha). Just this past Tuesday, his family invited us over to their home for David's "Good-Bye Dinner." Kathleen and I walked down the street to their house, and their home was very similar to Danielle's. Set back from the street, the home was stood two stories tall, and had a nice yard in the front. Their family was different than any other I had met in France. They were lively and it was obvious they have held onto their strong Moroccan traditions. The two parents, daughter and cousin greeted us at the door and invited us upstairs for a lovely dinner. The table was set and they served us the biggest serving of cous-cous and lamb I have ever seen. Laughing and telling stories, it was obvious that David had created such a strong bond with the family. It made me wish that Kathleen and I had the chance to interact with more French people our age. The two girls helped us with our French, and told us stories from their colleges in France. David's host-father, Abdu, is a well-known calligraphy artists here in Aix. After dinner, he took us down to his studio and showed us some of his works. He even did calligraphy drawings of our names in Arabic.  It is so colorful, I am so excited to hang it up in my room at home. The dinner with David's host family is probably one of my fondest memories in Aix.

There are a lot of things I am going to miss about my semester spent in Aix-en-Provence.
Kathleen and I decided to collaborate on this list:
  • My host-mother, Danielle and her lovely home.
  • Our balcony
  • Opening the bay windows in the morning
  • Sketching on the balcony when the weather was still nice
  • Traveling all over Europe
    • We visited
      • Cannes, France
      • Nice, France 
      • Eze, France 
      • Monte Carlo, France
      • Paris, France 
      • Brussels, Belgium 
      • Rome, Italy
      • Florence, Italy
      • Venice, Italy
      • Barcelona, Spain
      • Paris (again)
      • Cassis, France
      • Vaucluse villages, France
      • Nimes, France
      • Orange, France
  • Book and Bar, the local English bookstore where we would get coffee and do our homework
  • Paul, the Sandwich chain in France.... best grilled chicken sandwich in France
  • The little Tabac coffee store next to the Cathedral, where we would get coffee before European History class
  • People-watching on Cours Mirabeau
  • Subway was our way of escaping France for a few moments and transporting to America for a sandwich.
  • Topkapi, David's favorite Kebab place
  • The central market in Aix
  • Sitting by the Rotunda at the end of Cours Mirabeau at night
  • Crépes-A-Go-Go, the little Creperie located under Cours Mirabeau where the three of us would order "la foriestiere" a crepe with mushrooms, cheese and ham. mmm....
  • Café au Lait, in general
  • Painting in the country for our Art Class
  • Mad Men marathons
  • "manderines" in the morning 
  • Brunch at Le Pain Quotodien -- there are more than 5 in the world. 
  • Mailing over 30 post cards
  • American movies with French subtitles at Le Renior
  • Master Crumble every morning. 
  • Tutoring with my teacher, Margaux
  • Danielle's grandkids, GABIN and LOUIS
  • The grey Camoflage bedding
  • Getting Holiday cards from mom
  • Hanging out in the Vanderbilt apartment
  • Singing Alicia Keys in front of O'Shannon's with Robert.
  • David, the baby whisperer.
  • Vin Chaud
  • Our Theater teacher, Madame Cros
  • Seeing French babies in fuzzy bear costumes. 
  • Giraffes at O'Shannon's
  • Walking to school every morning
  • The French cooking class where we learned how to make Bouche du Noel
  • Dinner at David's homestay
  • The Lebanese restaurant
  • The 6 locks we had to lock/unlock to get into our house (haha)
  • The crazy cat that would snarl randomly.... that sounded like it was from the movies
  • Keeping up with this blog
  • Skyping with friends and family 
  • Registration for classes at 4am in the Paris Hostel
  • Starbucks in the Louvre
  • Cafe times with Robert and Allie
  • The hope of returning another day. 
Danielle's Front Gate



I am sad to say goodbye to Aix-en-Provence. This trip has changed me forever, and I hope I can come back again another day.

I would not change it for the world.

Au Revoir, Aix-en-Provence!
xo Molly

Friday, December 17, 2010

La Famille en France

Roussillon, France
I was lucky enough to have my family visit France over Thanksgiving break. My mom, brother (Andrew) and friends (Kevin & Bill) arrived on Sunday November 21st a few hours before I finished my Art History trip in Paris. They stayed in a small hotel on the main street in Aix, Cours Mirabeau. Their room was spacious and was in the perfect location.
Andrew, Kevin, Mom, Bill in Aix
I tried my best to be a good and helpful tour guide. Having people visit me really made me realize how acclimated I was to Aix. I knew good restaurants, the fastest walking routes and how to communicate with different venders. It was a great feeling to realize that I was accomplishing what I had come to France to do: become accustomed to living in a European country for four months.
mom in Cassis, France

The first day I took the group to see the various famous fountains in Aix. We walked around the Christmas markets on Cours Mirabeau and they shopped for various presents for the holiday season. We went on a day trip to Cassis with a family friend from home who now lives in Aix. He is an antique dealer and has lived in the countryside in Aix-en-Provence for over 30 years. He actually attended IAU in the 80's when he met his future French wife. In Cassis my family and I walked around the different shops and Le Mistral (the wind in France) made the temperature so cold. It was weird to be on the beach in November. We all sat and ordered Cafe au Lait and went to a very good French and Mediterranean Restaurant afterwards.

The next day we took a guided tour of the villages of Vaucluse. We visited Lourmarin, Lacoste, Gordes, Roussillon and a few other villages. My favorite stop was Roussillon. It was a village on top of a deposit of red rocks and has a beautiful 'Maison Commune' on the top of a mountain. In Gordes we had a really nice lunch. Bill ordered the wild boar, and Andrew and Mom split a rabbit. Very French.
Chapel at Roussillon 
Bill picked out some great restaurants that were suggested by the Frommer's guide to France. It was nice to eat in restaurants for once, because I had eaten most of my meals at home with my host mom. I took Andrew to get his first Nutella crepe and we got to see the seventh Harry Potter movie with my friends. I loved getting to shop around the markets and enjoy Cafe au Lait with my family.
lavender (out of season)
For Thanksgiving Dinner, my family met up with Kathleen and her father to celebrate the typical American tradition. David joined us as well. We went to this great little French restaurant. Everyone ordered a different entrees ranging from lamb to duck. It was fun to all sit around a big table and tell different stories. Though it was different, I do not think I would have spent this Thanksgiving any other way.

I hope my family enjoyed coming to visit Aix-en-Provence! We got to see a lot of Southern France, and had a really nice time shopping in various stores and walking around different villages. Even after they left, Kathleen's father stayed an extra few days, and invited David and I to dinner. It was nice to get to know Kathleen's father in this cute restaurant called 'Chez Maxime.' He also invited us on their trip to Nimes and Orange. The four of us toured the best preserved Roman ampitheatre in the world. It was fun walking up and down all the steps and it even began to snow at one point. I loved being surrounded by family and friends for the American holiday in France... it felt like I was back at home.
Nimes, France
Ampitheatre in Orange, France in the snow

Monday, December 6, 2010

Pictures in Paris, Art History Trip (Nov 17-21)

Paris in November
Artists in the Louvre 
Delacroix 'Liberty Leading the People' 1830
Class Discussions
Professor Kathleen 


John Gasparach, Art History Teacher
La Seine at night
Notre Dame at night

Day 2 in the Louvre
Alan Roberts, Art Teacher
heaven. 

Musee D'Orsay
Monet snow scene

La Tour D'Eiffel
Along the Seine River in November 
Musée de l'Orangerie
oval rooms


This last trip to Paris was one of my favorite weeks during my whole abroad experience. As an Art and Art History student here in Aix, I had the privilege of going on an extensive museum trip all over Paris for 5 days. We spent a full day and a half in the Louvre Museum analyzing paintings an array by Titian, Goya, Delacroix and Rembrandt. Our class also visited the beautiful Musée D'Orsay for another full day and a half. We had the chance to spend hours in front of the remarkable works by Degas, Manet, Monét, Renoir and Cézanne. Before visiting the Musée de L'Orangerie I had a quick hour to walk over to La Tour D'Eiffel. It was absolutely magnificent.  The Musée de L'Orangerie is a museum dedicated to all of Monet's largest works in 2 spectacular oval rooms. On Sunday we ended our trip at the Musée Marmottant, which was also devoted to Monet. It was neat to see his different works over his lifetime. 

I fell in love with Paris during this trip. I now understand why people have fallen in love with this city for hundreds and hundreds of years. As a native New Yorker, it is safe to say I have discovered a new city of lights. The crisp mornings and pale blue skies were the perfect way to greet the day. The vintage book booths along the Seine River, French children walking to school wearing red and blue berets and the glitter of the Eiffel tower at dusk are just a few unforgettable snapshots I remember in my mind. 

My trip to Paris in November was nothing short of sensational. 
I will write again soon!

A Bientot!
xo
Molly 

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Barcelona, the Beautiful: November 11-14

Inside of Sagrada Familia 

Our adventure consisted of fourteen hours of train travel, six different train stations and one final destination in an unforgettable Spanish city.  When Kathleen and I realized we did not have school on Thursday November 11th because of Armistice Day, we had a variety of cities we wanted to visit for the four-day weekend. We planned our trip to Barcelona, Spain less than two days before we left. After two visits to the travel agent, and many hours spent on hostelbookers.com, we were so excited to see one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. Barcelona is the most modern of the cities I have visited in Europe thus far. The colorful architecture, talented street performers and extensive art scene left me amazed with all the Barcelona had to offer. Upon arriving in Barcelona, we had difficulty finding our hotel. After walking around for 45 minutes, Kathleen and I found an Internet cafe where we used "Google maps" to find the exact location. The "Google maps" application has been such a savior throughout all of our travels. It just so happened that the Internet cafe where we sat down also sold tickets to all of Barcelona's soccer games. Kathleen, who played soccer in high school, mentioned a few times that she really wanted to attend a game. We bought tickets in the second tier section for the Barcelona vs. Villarreal game on Saturday night. We were so excited. It gave us something to really look forward to for our entire stay in Barcelona. Completely exhausted, we retired to our very modern hotel. Decorated with all white furniture, red blankets and lamps, the Rambla Gothiko Hotel was very clean and was in an amazing location just off of the main street: La Rambla.


Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, choir stalls

Barcelona is such a unique place. The lively atmosphere on the streets was contagious. All of the enthusiastic street performers added to Barcelona’s energetic and exciting personality. Our first stop on Friday morning was a small Gothic church called Santa Maria del Pi. Said to have one of the biggest rose windows in Spain, the Santa Maria del Pi Cathedral had many stained glass windows that illuminated the Gothic architecture. In front of the church there was a street performer making giant bubbles with two wands. People surrounded him in amazement; he was definitely my favorite street performer. Later we walked through one of the oldest parts of Barcelona to get to the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia. This cathedral was constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries and is adorned with gargoyles and other various animals on the roof. The church retained the original choir stalls with the different coat-of-arms from the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece in Barcelona. Kathleen and I took a little elevator up to the roof of the church. We had a perfect view of the entire city of Barcelona. The church also is famous for its Gothic cloister and garden. In the garden there are beautiful fountains and 13 white geese to resemble the age when Saint Eulalia was martyred. On our way to see the Sagrada Familia, we stopped to see the Arch de Triomf made with red brick and the famous Barcelona Head by Lichtenstein.
roof of the Cathedral
Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia was absolutely breathtaking. It was unlike any church I have ever been to. I can safely say that the Sagrada Familia designed by Antoni Gaudi is the most interesting piece of architecture I have ever encountered. At first glance I thought I was standing in front of a gigantic dribble sand castle. Known as the “Unfinished Cathedral,” the Sagrada Familia was started in 1882 and is still not complete. This church is the true collaboration between architecture and art. We were lucky to visit the church just three weeks after Pope Benedict XVI visited to consecrate the church as a basilica. The cathedral is extremely modern and colorful. You could stare at Gaudi’s church for hours and still be surprised by all the small intricate details. Different animals and creatures scale the façade of the church and give the building a very playful and childlike feel. When I walked into the church after waiting in line for an hour, I was completely blown away. The cathedral was so colorful and new. The stained glass highlighted the modern altar and tall soaring pillars that were said to symbolize towering trees.  We took an elevator to the top of the tallest spire. It was like walking around a maze. There were different entrances and exits and ups and downs on all of the spiral staircases. It was neat to get close to the artwork adorning the tops of the different spires. The colorful mosaics looked like bowls of ‘Capt’n Crunch’ cereal. Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia was truly an amazing and mystical sight. The different colors and animals added to Barcelona’s lively and vibrant nature.
Sagrada Familia altar

spiral staircase in Sagrada Familia 

The weather in Barcelona was magnificent. It was mid-November and I was not too warm and not too cold wearing just a short-sleeved dress. It was such a nice change of pace from the very chilly days in Aix. Barcelona’s temperature was about 70 degrees on November 11th. I was astonished because the two cities are so close on the map, yet have such different climates. After going to the Sagrada Familia, Kathleen and I ventured across the city to see the ‘Museu Nactional d’Art de Catalina’ also known as the MNAC.  The massive museum rested on the top of a hill with five very long staircases leading to the front doors. After mustering the energy to walk up the hundreds of stairs, we got to see such a beautiful view of Barcelona from above. We arrived just at nightfall, and I am so happy we chose to go towards the end of the night. Having the museum to ourselves, we got to look at the various pieces from different artists ranging from Fragonard to Dali without tons of crowds. There was a really neat jewelry exhibit featuring different pieces from over the centuries. The most famous piece of jewelry was a brooch designed by Salvador Dali that featured a clock in the shape of an eye.
MNAC
Dali Jewelry
view of Barcelona from the museum

"La Xtina"
That night Kathleen’s family friend suggested a good Chinese restaurant close to our hotel called “La Xtina.” The food was really good and the restaurant reminded me of a trendy Asian restaurant that would be in New York City. There was an illuminated paper Chinese dragon hanging from the ceiling that spanned the whole restaurant. Kathleen and I were lucky enough to sit close to the chefs so we could see what they were cooking. After dinner we went to this little local bar called the “Manchester Bar.” We sat amongst Barcelona locals listening to The Smiths and MGMT in this little bar with red lights above us. We were definitely the only Americans in the spot, but it was fun to see all the different Spanish people in their element. Though I must admit, they did not dress all that different from the average American “hipster.” All the girls seemed to be wearing American Apparel cropped tops and the boys wearing zip-up hoodies while sporting shaggy curly dark hair dos. We later ended our night at this club near our hotel called ‘Razzmatazz.’ Kathleen’s boyfriend told her about it, so we figured we should check it out. There were 5 huge rooms blasting 5 different genres of music. One played 90’s hits and the others played rock, house, techno, and pop. There were so many people running around. It was really fun, I’m happy we went to see what the nightlife was like in Barcelona.
Manchester Bar
Rassmatazz
Park Güell 
The next morning we woke up and ventured to Park Güell. This was one of my favorite sites in Barcelona. Designed by Antoni Gaudi, the Park Güell reminded me of a mix between Disney World and Alice and Wonderland. Gaudi lived in the park for twenty years at the beginning of the Twentieth Century, and we were lucky enough to tour his home. The colorful mosaics and interesting architecture made it feel as if I were walking through a play land. We later walked to the Pablo Picasso Museum, which was really interesting. I have never really had a true appreciation for Picasso until I got to see all of his works at once. The museum was really nicely set up. The pieces were displayed in chronological order and it was fascinating to see how his style changed so much throughout his career. Obviously his later pieces are known for their bright colors and use of shapes, but his earlier pieces are very classic and similar to others during his early time period. The special exhibit showcased the comparisons between the works of Picasso and Degas. I love Degas.  I was so lucky to see the 1922 ‘Little Fourteen-Year-Old Dancer' sculpture by Degas. It was much larger in person than I had expected.



Degas Sculpture
FC Barcelona Fans
Kathleen and I quickly went home and changed into our soccer jerseys before the game. It was fun to sit on the metro and see all the fans piling into the various subway cars. Everyone was wearing different red and blue garb. The stadium was huge, and our seats were perfect! The game was really fun and the crowd was so animated. The FC Barcelona stadium has a current capacity of over 98,000 people. The people were always singing different songs and cheering/booing in unison. It was so much fun. Barcelona played Villarreal and they won! The score was 3-1. I am so glad we ended up buying tickets to the game. It was totally worth it, and a great way to end our trip to Barcelona.